Elisabeth Dines with Elisabeth
By Elisabeth Fondell
In her book, Serve it Forth, M.F.K. Fisher discusses the concept of solo-dining in a chapter titled, On Dining Alone.She tells the story of Lucullus, the Roman gourmet, who upon tiring of dining with others, requested his dinner alone. When the staff prepared a meal of inadequate standards, Lucullus said to his official server, “It is precisely when I am alone that you are required to pay special attention to the dinner. At such times, you must remember, Lucullus dines with Lucullus.”
To quote M.F.K. Fisher’s next two paragraphs:
At such times few men realize that they are dining with themselves. In fact, they try to forget that rather frightening truth. They read the newspaper or turn on the radio if they are at home. More often they flee from themselves to friend-filled clubs, or to the noisiest nearest restaurant, where other lone humans eat crowded together in a hungry, ugly mob and take digestive pills between their hurried courses.
It is a pity. An occasional meal with himself is very good for Mr. Doe. It gives him time to look about him; quiet in which to savour his present mouthful; opportunity to broil his steak a new way or try again those dishes his wife hates.
Too scared or too busy, many never take the opportunity to dine alone. It is indeed a pity.
On a business trip to NYC, I found myself alone with no evening plan. My colleagues wanted a low-key night in, but I refused to waste such an opportunity. I set out with no destination in mind, just a gurgling stomach and the city lights before me. Finally settling on a cantina with an upbeat vibe and festive lanterns, I pulled up a chair, confirmed that I was dining alone, ordered a margarita on the rocks with salt, and perused the menu. To my utter surprise and extreme delight, I was a natural. Thus began my introduction to dining alone.
I began to take advantage of solo dining opportunities whenever possible, from pilgrimages to once-in-a-lifetime spots to the local pub down the street, continually thrilled to settle in for a meal alone. On these rare occurrences of gastronomic indulgence, I hold deep reverence for the exquisite flavors, paired wines, and restaurant ambiance, masquerading as an epicure with an insatiable appetite. I return to the thought of these meals often and with the utmost clarity, wondering when my next one will be.
After all, Elisabeth dines with Elisabeth.
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Serve It Forth by M.F.K. Fisher first published in 1937. I discovered it as part of The Art of Eating, a collection of five works by M.F.K. Fisher published by Macmillan Publishing Company.
Bill is a most admirable dining companion, as he will allow one to digest his musings before pushing foreward. Excellent post. Dining alone is truly an “art form” that few cultivate………